My work is usually all original, drawing inspiration from a number historical and modern day designs and so I was very reluctant to produce a copy.  The original outfit was designed by John Galliano, and made by Mr Pearl…a man I respect immensely. After much deliberation I felt that the outfit was just too good a project to pass up the opportunity of making and got down to it.

Chrissie…”blew me away with the finished product. The fit was 100% perfect and most probably the most comfortable corset I have ever owned” – Tabitha Adams

Chrissie Nicholson Wild
Curve Couture
29-03-09

Upon further discussion I found out to my worry that Benita was in fact allergic to feathers…so a solution had to be found about getting feathers safely away from her skin. It was decided that the tail would be sufficiently far enough away from raw skin to risk it, and that instead of putting real feathers on the corset they would be embroidered on instead.

As with all bespoke commissions I made a mock up of the corset and fitted it before deciding upon the design and placement of the embroidery. In total the embroidery took me about a day to complete and mount onto the corset fronts before I could stitch the rest of the corset together.

In the meantime I think I bought about 500 feathers for the train, but after placing them on the train to see what they looked like I realised that I was going to need a whole lot more. In fact I think that between myself and the guests we bought that particular supplier out of peacock feathers that month. There were many technical problems about applying the feathers to the train but eventually I settled upon a method that meant I could stitch the majority on with a machine.

We finished Benita’s outfit with a peacock head-dress, and some short bloomers trimmed with black broderie anglais lace. Unfortunately I couldn’t attend the party myself  so when I received the photo’s I was overjoyed at how marvelous and happy Benita looked for her birthday.

Chrissie Nicholson Wild
Curve Couture
29-03.09

The first stage of the process was to sketch out some idea’s with alternate ways of wrapping and gathering detail so that Bronwen could choose which designs she liked best. The colour, fabric and finishes that would work best for her design were also discussed and Bronwen decided upon a beautiful white silver silk and chiffon .

At our next appointment I measured her and began pattern cutting for the under-structure and the toille of the dress. The under bodice had to be right before anything else could be done as it would be the foundation for all else that would follow.  Once finished and boned it was used as the base for the dress mock up, before Bronwen came into the studio for her first fitting. Mock-ups and fittings are vital during the bespoke dressmaking process in order to check how the flat pattern will translate to the figure it represent. They give the dressmaker opportunity to check the flow and proportions of the design and get important feedback from the client. After alterations were done, the mock-up was finalised and we had the finished pattern for the dress.

The next stage in the process was to pin and drape the chiffon on the dummy to get an idea of the fluid lines and gathering details before finally deciding upon their placement.

Once this had been decided the pattern was carefully cut out of the beautiful fabrics that Bronwen had selected, before piecing all the parts together to create the finished dress.

‘Quote here please from Bronwen!’

Chrissie Nicholson Wild
Curve Couture
27-03-09

For the longevity of your corset you must treat it with care and respect. For although the corset as a garment is robust enough to pull in a waist four or so inches, without proper care of the materials the corset will become weakened, particularly the outer fabric which is usually of a more delicate fabric.

How you put on and take off your corset is of vital importance. Always unlace your corset before it is taken off or put on. Without unlacing your corset you are putting extra undue stress on the top fabric and stitching at the front panels, and the fabric could potentially rip right out of the seam.

It’s very hard and laborious (and therefore expensive) to repair a corset, and results are less than satisfactory, so ensure you unlace it enough to place it around your body without pulling it.

Most corsets are labelled dry clean only, and especially if they are made of silk or dry clean fabrics you should follow that advice. Of course it is a bit much to dry clean it after every wear, and a spray of fabreeze (or similar product) and a good outside airing will usually suffice.

If you unfortunately do stain your corset, deal with it as soon as possible. If your corset is made of non-dry clean only fabric such as cotton sometimes the stain can be lifted with a relevant spot cleaner and a slightly damp cloth – of course this is your own risk so exercise your best judgement. Never immerse your corset in water, as potentially this could affect the metal busk and boning. Another consideration in your corset cleaning is it’s decoration – if it is beaded it my be prudent to send it to a specialist in bridal dry cleaning as they deal with elaborate fabrics and trimmings, you may be asked to sign a waver relieving them of responsibility for the outcome. Again, this is at your own risk.

One of the first corsets I made, over ten years ago is still robust and wearable, so it just goes to show that with proper care your beautiful corset can last many years of enjoyable wearing.

In summary:
• Always unlace your corset before it is taken off or put on
• Give your corset a good airing, and maybe febreeze (or similar), in between use
• If it needs to be cleaned, *dry clean it – don’t put it in the washing machine or put it in soak
• If you stain it act quick! Take it to the dry cleaners. If t is a non-dry clean fabric it may work with a stain remover and damp cloth (at your own risk)
NB.Beaded corsets or elaborate trimmings may require specialist bridal dry cleaning

Chrissie Nicholson Wild
Curve Couture
27-03-09